When we opened the charcoal kitchen, we thought we understood fire. Binchotan taught us otherwise. It takes forty minutes to light properly and then it holds a steady, almost silent heat for most of the evening.
Heat without smoke
Because binchotan is nearly pure carbon, it gives off very little smoke. The flavour comes from the fat and juices that drip and sizzle, not from the fuel. That is why a langoustine can sit over it for ninety seconds and taste only of itself, sweeter.
The rhythm of service
We bank the coals into three zones: fierce, steady and resting. Whole fish start fierce and finish resting. Greens go on last, when the grill has calmed down and everyone at the pass has too.
